Calcio Storico Fiorentino is an early form of football that originated in Italy in the 16 century. Now it is played only in Florence, at its original location - the Piazza Santa Croce. In its current incarnation, it’s basically a cross between mixed martial arts and rugby. It’s intense. Since first hearing about it I was determined to see a match.
Only three matches are played each year - two semifinals and the final. Tickets are only available in person from the box office in Florence in an effort to keep it restricted to locals. I’d also read that tickets to the final were almost impossible to get, so I decided to try to get tickets to a semifinal
For the last month, I’d been trying to work out when tickets were going on sale. There was nothing on the official website or the website for the box office and they didn’t pick up at the phone numbers listed.
Also, there was a question of how appropriate it would be for kids. In the past there has been trouble with fans getting into fights in the street so I was bit nervous about bringing the whole family.
Finally, a week before the semifinal, I got a response through the Facebook page of the event that tickets were going on sale on the Monday (the semi finals were on the Saturday and Sunday) and they were expected to sell out by the end of the day. I resolved to drive into Florence (an hour from Siena) to get a ticket (we decided it was too risky to take the kids).
Unfortunately I had forgotten that we were on Elba Island that weekend, and only getting back late Monday. I would have to take a chance and go on Tuesday.
So, after dropping the kids at school I headed to Florence. The box office was in an amazing building right near the Piazza Santa Croce.
I went straight in and asked if there were any tickets left. They told me that there were and asked me what section I wanted. I had no idea so I asked for a recommendation. They suggested I sit in the stand with the Verdi supporters which had a nice view of the Basilica. Sounded good.
It was only midday and I didn’t have to pick the kids up till 3 so I decided to get a haircut at the hipster barber in the center of town - Machete.
I’d been there a few times before but this time I came out with a distinctive Vanilla Ice/Last Of The Mohicans vibe.
I made it back to Siena, picked up the kids and headed home.
I wished I had asked whether cameras were allowed at the game. I couldn’t find any mention of it anywhere and whoever was replying on the event’s Facebook page didn’t know so I decided to risk it.
On Saturday I got the train into Florence and walked through the Piazza Del Duomo to the location of the match.
Pretty soon I started passing Verdi fans. They didn’t look like the bloodthirsty hooligans I was expecting.
Although when I got to the entry for my ticket and joined the line, I did notice the considerable police presence.
And some very loyal supporters.
After talking my cameras through security I hit up the merch stand so that I could fit in with my Verdi companions. I couldn’t help but notice the ambulance standing by.
€10 later I was ready to go.
It was over 30 degrees with no shade and lots of testosterone.
The local residents were getting ready too.
After some official speeches trumpets sounded and the flag-bearers started entering the piazza. We watched and stared down the opposing Rossi supporters.
We were treated to a full medieval parade and flag-throwing demonstration. Eventually the Rossi players entered the field and the supporters went wild.
Then the Verdi team entered and it was our turn.
Eventually the smoke cleared and the whole Piazza filled with teams and officials.
Then it was time for the game. It’s a very strange sport, and I wont explain the rules. But it definitely lived up to it’s reputation for violence.
Unfortunately Verdi was beaten 4-1. I joined my fellow supporters in a despondent walk back to the train.
