Positano

Following an amazing experience in the lead-up to Palio, it was time to head off on our summer holiday. We had decided to travel as light as we could, so we packed up everything else (somehow we’ve managed to double our possessions since we’ve been here) and left it in a storeroom at the winery we were staying at. We were left with two suitcases, a beach bag and one piece of hand luggage each.

The first stop on our trip was Positano, on the Amalfi Coast. We had to go via Rome to drop off the car we’d leased, then pick up a rental car to drive to Sorento, then finally get a shuttle to Positano.

Apart from a few minor delays and misunderstandings we made it down without incident and eventually caught our first glimpse of the Amalfi Coast.

We were met in Positano by our amazing host Francesco, who was a friend of a friend. He took us up the narrow stairs to his apartment.

With this incredible view.

The next day we headed out early to get to the dock for a boat trip along the coast.

Our skipper Daniele (also a friend) met us at the pier in his Gozzo boat.

The view was stunning as we pulled out of Positano harbour.

And headed along the coast on the old wooden boat.

Past some impressively precarious-looking hotels.

The views were stunning, so I decided it would be a good time to take some shots with the drone. It took about five minutes to get it all set up and ready to fly. And about three seconds for it to get caught by a gust of wind and fly immediately into the sea.

I knew the drone was insured but I still had to force myself to stop thinking about it and enjoy the rest of the day. The perfect water helped.

After a few hours exploring the coast and its grottoes, we headed to Da Adolfo for lunch. It was amazing (despite the high density of Australian accents).

We spent the afternoon swimming and relaxing at the beach in front of the restaurant. I even managed to order a new drone (now I just had to cross my fingers and hope that the Italian Postal service would come through for me). We got the last boat back to Positano.

The next day I headed out early to explore Positano before the crowds.

After the rest of the family woke up we grabbed breakfast and caught a ferry to Amalfi. We were standing in the middle of the main Piazza when Mandi realised we’d been there 12 years before with Hayley.

We spent the rest of the day at the beach in Amalfi then caught the ferry back.

After two days at the beach, Mandi managed to convince a local hotel to let us pay to use their pool for the day.

They also had an amazing restaurant.

With amazing seafood to match.

After more swimming and a relaxing afternoon, we headed back to our apartment to find a parcel with a new drone inside. Just in time for sunset.

There is a popular hiking trail in Positano called “Il Sentiero degli Dei” (The Path of the Gods). We had all wanted to do it together but with the heat it was going to be tough for the kids.

I decided to tackle it myself the next day. To make it a bit more challenging I decided that instead of doing what most people do and get the bus from Positano to the highest point at Agerola and then walk down the 7km to the lowest point at Nocelle, I would walk from Positano up the 1700 steps to Nocelle then go uphill to Agerola then come back - about 20km total with 4000m of elevation change.

In an attempt to beat the heat, I headed out at 5:30 the next morning. After a short walk up the quiet main street I reached the first of many stairs.

It took about 15 minutes to get up to the main road and catch a glimpse of Positano.

A quick walk along the road and I was at the next section - the base of the 1,700 steps up to Nocelle where the path begins.

There was still a long way to go.

At least the views were worth it.

Just a few more staircases to go.

By 6:30 I was finally at the trailhead.

I headed off up the (still climbing) path.

The views were spectacular.

By about 8:00 the sun was starting to come up. And there were more stairs.

The temperature started climbing rapidly. My three weather apps (one is never enough in Italy) all agreed that it was over 30 degrees.

Finally at 8:00 I made it to Agerola.

It was time for a coffee before the return leg.

I decided to run back on the return journey. Perhaps not the best decision in the dusty, hot conditions.

I made it back to Nocelle and then started heading back down the 1,700 stairs. My knees really started to feel it about halfway down. The locals have a saying ‘you climb up the stairs with your heart, but down with your knees”. Apparently the rate of knee replacements in the Amalfi Coast is huge. When I finally caught sight of Positano it was a welcome relief.

I made it back to our apartment, where Mandi welcomed me with a beer and a pastry (a sfogliatella - my favourite). Mission accomplished.

After my heart rate returned to normal we headed down the beach for our last day in Positano. The water had been invaded by jellyfish but that didn’t deter Hayley.

He had a great day at the beach and then headed back to shower and change before going for an evening drink with Francesco and his girlfriend Ina in his apartment just above ours. Their view is even better.

We had a great evening then headed back for an earlyish (by Amalfi standards) night before our big travel day the next day.